clunking sound on decelerating

Discussion in 'Challenger Mechanical Problems Forum | TSB's' started by dsg, Apr 24, 2016.

  1. dsg

    dsg New Member

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    I have a 2016 RT that has a clunking sound when coasting to a stop. The sound is heard from the 33 to 27 mph range and again from 13 to 7 mph. Just checking to see if anyone else has experienced this with the 8 speed transmission. The mileage is only at 700 miles.
     
  2. RumbleBee

    RumbleBee Member

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    I would definitely bring it back to the dealer for a check up. I have the same car and no noises when slowing down. Good luck.

    I refuse to tiptoe thru life only to arrive safely at Death.
     
  3. JKJsmax

    JKJsmax New Member

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    I have a 2016 RT with the 8 speed and do not have any noise.
     
  4. Steve2150

    Steve2150 New Member

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    I have a 2016 R/T Plus 8 speed, dealer updated TCM, PCM &HVAC modules. Now transmission shifts hard and after coming to a complete stop it downshifts where you think you just got rear ended.
     
  5. RumbleBee

    RumbleBee Member

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    I recently posted that I had no noise when stopping. I now have about 2100 miles on my car and tonite I came to a quicker stop than usual and it sounded like the tyranny downshifted hard into first gear. So I tried to replicate. The sound in sport mode and couldn't do it. I'm wondering if it's because of the tighter settings? But then again I couldn't make it do it in regular mode after that...

    I refuse to tiptoe thru life only to arrive safely at Death.
     
  6. Ball07

    Ball07 New Member

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    I have a 2015 SXT that does the same, it also happens when braking at low speed. I was wondering what it might be before it goes in for its service next week. Any ideas? Mine has 4300km on the clock but it started after the last service.
     
  7. RumbleBee

    RumbleBee Member

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    Sorry to say I don't know what it could be. Have them check the universal joints, that's the only thing that won't cost you anything right now. Mine only did it a couple of times so an educated guess is all I have. Good luck and keep us updated.

    Sent from my E6820TM using Tapatalk
     
  8. RumbleBee

    RumbleBee Member

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    Although, you still are under warranty so have them do everything they can while it's covered. I used to do warranty work and if they're busy with paying customers be prepared to get delayed quite a bit. Good luck

    Sent from my E6820TM using Tapatalk
     
  9. Motorhead1257

    Motorhead1257 Member

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    Ok guys, I hope this helps you out. It's the same issue for the AT's and the 6spds. On top of the rear end housing is a bushing with a long bolt like 7" or so and it goes to a 2 piece bushing with rubber on both resembling washer encased in rubber on the bottom side and a washer encased in rubber with a nut welded to it on the top side. Bolt goes thru an ear on the right side of the housing then the bottom portion of the bushing goes on the bolt just before the bolt goes up into the sub-frame, cradle or carriage cross member as some call it. Then the top portion of the bushing goes into the hole in the top section of the cradle. It's a little tricky to install, but it is do-able. I just did this to my 6spd. about 3 weeks ago and it got rid of the slapping sound it would make when driving slow and letting off the gas or stepping on the gas. Mine did both ways and all I got from the dealer was this, "It's the nature of the beast, they all do it." They also said, these cars have to have that much free play in the drive line to give it time to "preload" so you don't tear anything up when applying all that HP. I was like, "Bullshit" If I went to buy a new one and it did this I wouldn't buy and I would never be back again to look at a car from them.

    Ok, if you elect to try the repair yourself you WILL need a 2 post lift. The rear tires have to be off the ground. You have to disconnect the exhaust hangers, rear end of the driveshaft and a few other things. You Are Forewarned. I'm not responsible for your safety. I'm just giving you an idea of what is involved. I will say this. High Horse Performance has the best replacement part for this fix. It's solid NOT RUBBER and it works like it should and no rubber to replace every few months under NORMAL driving conditions. You WILL REUSE the bottom portion of the rubber stock washer assembly. It has to have some cushion for the pushin. hahaha

    Again, I hope it helps ya out and have a Great one!
    Les
     
  10. 70-426_10-SRT

    70-426_10-SRT B&E body lover

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    Damn, something else to look at when I get home.