Clutch, transmission, and shifter research thread! Save money and frustration!

Discussion in 'Challenger HellCat Forum Engine & Performance' started by Moparisto, Dec 30, 2022.

  1. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    The less torque your car has at low RPM and the heavier the car, the more it will need a heavy flywheel/clutch assembly to get launched without overuse of the START button.

    The Hellcat has mounds of torque, so it is easy to launch with the stock clutch, or the units that add mass, such as the McLeod and RAM systems (not all of the McLeod and RAM systems do this) that add a heavy plate to the existing flywheel, then mount the clutch on that.

    The tradeoff is that you have a heavier clutch to accelerate as you go through each gear.
    Now, the clutch plates themselves are not terribly heavy, so an 80-pound clutch assembly will not necessarily cause more wear and tear on the synchros during shifting (especially powershifting, where the foot is kept down on the gas, and the clutch just rapidly brushed then sidestepped.) The synchros only have to deal with the mass of the input shaft and the clutch disks, unless you are kinda sloppy about clutch engagement.

    However, as the clutch is re-engaged after completing your shift, whatever momentum it gained during the shift (if powershifting) is rapidly spent on a bit of extra acceleration, but then the whole thing has to be accelerated again through the next gear.
    If you want to see a fairly direct demonstration of flywheel mass and how it affects an engine, watch this episode of Garage 54 in Novosibersk, Russia.

    The amount of time it takes your flywheel to accelerate to redline from your last shift point RPM, if disengaged from transmission, is directly piled on any acceleration figures you may have.
    You can see this effect as they pile on more and more flywheels on this car, and how long it takes at wide open throttle (WOT) to get the engine to rev up.

    However, most people are not racing for money on the street, so daily drivability is more of an issue than judder-starting from a standing start is worth.

    The better/stronger holding/longer lasting a clutch material is, the grabbier it is, usually, so it takes a delicate touch to get the car to pull away from an intersection without unnecessary juddering or stalling.

    If you are truly fanatical about polar moment, you can go with an on/off switch-engagement Pro Stock clutch that is 6 inches in diameter or so. Zero people would recommend that, however, unless your LIFE depended on how fast you get down a quarter mile, in which case you would want to put a Liberty or Lenco trans behind it, also, for example.

    One of the best things, one of the biggest favors, you can do for your transmission is just put a Barton shifter on it. Then it feels like a true double-H gate instead of just a "third gear could be here, but, then again, it may be first, who knows? that the stock shifter seems to be good for. (I know, I had my shifter try to put me in third even though I was ever-so-carefully and slowly trying to get it into fifth gear. I knew to watch out for that with this particular shifter, thank God.) I have also had it go into first when trying to downshift into third.

    BTW, if you want to know how a transmission SHOULD feel, buy a first-generation RX7. Don't believe me? Try one. I don't even know if Ferraris with gated shifters shifted with that much confidence and precision. (having never driven one.)


    ANYWAY, ONWARD TO CLUTCHES AND TRANSMISSIONS:
    Research results so far:
    Single-disk, twin-disk and triple-disk found so far. I think someone makes a quad-disk, also, IIRC.

    Means of attaching the disks: strap or stand. The strap is strongest when accelerating, and due to it being a strap, has to be designed quite strong to be able to take full torque in reverse (as in when one shifts into the wrong gear and suddenly the engine is rapidly accelerated by the rear wheels)

    The stand type uses a variety of means that, in short, have a post of some sort fastened to the part that is rotated by the engine directly: flywheel or flywheel add-on and the clutch disk(s) bear on those stands to be forced to rotate.

    Mantic's clutches use stands with fairly long through-bolts run through them to hold them in place, so the through-bolts are actually in single shear, supporting the entire force of the clutch's attempt to not rotate with the flywheel as pressure is applied.

    The brands that have the housing for the pressure plate bolting directly to an often-raised surface that is integral to the flywheel that are also stand-type have a sturdier, in engineering terms, situation where the long bolts holding the stands in place are in FAR stronger double-shear mounting, as far as the load placed on them by the floaters goes,as they are supported where they screw into the flywheel, and they are also supported at the head end where they pass through the pressure plate housing, because the pressure plate is held in place by being bolted directly to the flywheel or flywheel add-on.

    By definition, all the bolts that attach ANYTHING to the flywheel itself are mounted in single shear, such as the bolts fastening the pressure plate assembly or any accessories to locate the floaters, etc.
    [​IMG]

    Single shear (top of picture.) The load appied to the fastener is trying to "tip over" the fastener in addition to pulling on it perpendicular to the fastener's axis of rotation.

    Double shear (bottom of picture) does not apply any lever-type force to the threads of the fastener, as the load is linear perpendicular to the fastener axis, and the fastener is securely held above and below the load.


    A bolt that is one inch long in single shear, where the load placed on it is actually touching the opposite-direction shear object, namely, the flywheel, for example, is FAR sturdier than a bolt that is three inches long that is holding a pressure plate that far off of the flywheel, so the pressure plates that bolt directly to the flywheel or some other large, multi-bolt-fastened accessory, such as the RAM, with its arc-shaped pieces that bolt to the flywheel upon which they bolt their pressure plate, are sturdier, in engineering terms.

    Engineering textbooks may be fascinating, but real-world experience by people who have to deal with clutches daily will tell you a more complete story about the positive or negative properties of a given brand/system/configuration of a clutch.

    Centerforce has a unique setup where one of their dual clutch disks has a toothed basket that drives the second clutch from the first disk, instead of the second clutch disk being driven by the transmission splines directly. Centerforce also has weights on their diaphragm spring that increase clamp load as RPMs increase, claiming that this assists in high horsepower capability with lighter pedal effort. The Centerforce has a pressure plate that has small stands on which it mounts, but with straps on it.

    UPDATE; Talked to Centerforce about their Dyad clutch. The Dyad is constructed as follows, in spite of what the web site says:
    Ceramic or organic material, whichever you choose
    Billet steel flywheel
    NODULAR IRON floater, not cast.
    NODULAR IRON ring onto which the pressure plate bolts.
    I think they chose nodular iron (he emphasized that it is not cast) because it has a relatively low coefficient of thermal expansion, and thus, being the part that is sandwiched between two clutch disks, and therefore the one place that heat is most likely to build up, it will experience the least warpage of all materials they tested.

    Also, the floater has non-radial sets of holes drilled in it like a Porsche racing brake rotor.

    Evidently, multi-disk setups rattle or something when disengaged, my guess being that that is due to engine torsional vibrations acting on the different pieces in the assembly.

    If I had it to do, I would go with a pressure plate housing that bolts directly to the flywheel, aka the way the stock clutch does, and the way some aftermarket clutches do, so the pressure plate is not, in effect, a hut placed on (admittedly sturdy) stilts, as I trust double-shear (in the case of stands being used to hold things in place in a multi-disk scenario) far more than I trust single shear, as do all engineers.

    One anecdote I read from a stand-style clutch user was his friends wondered what was screwed up on his car from the noise emanating from his clutch.

    Brands found so far:
    McLeod (has a very wide range of offerings, both in organic and ceramic facings)
    RAM (interesting in that their ceramic disks are offered for the Hellcat only with one sprung and one unsprung disk that is not directly tied to the sprung disk.)
    Centerforce: has stand mounts, kind of, with ceramic, organic, or sintered iron offerings for the facings. Unique clutch disk has a sprung disk with a mating gear-tooth-type piece that ties it to the second disk, which does not bear on the input shaft itself, so ALL spring action is done by the springs in the one clutch disk.


    Bad Boyzz Garage (BBG) with their "Monster" triple-plate clutch, they also have a dual-plate.
    [​IMG]
    The Bad Boyzz Garage clutch mounts the pressure plate on stands, so, single shear stress on the bolts again with this brand. The floater(s) bear on the round dowels surrounding the bolts that secure the pressure plate.

    Mantic, all are stand-style, dual and triple-plate, comes in a nice aluminum box/briefcase/whatever with a replacement TO bearing included
    ACT has two models, I think.
    Dunno if this all-carbon clutch will fit the Hellcat:
    [​IMG]
    Viper Quad Carbon Clutch — Nth Moto

    [​IMG] www.nthmoto.com
    Carolina Clutch offers a strangely similar model specifically for the Hellcat:
    [​IMG]
    Rps Billet Carbon Hellcat Triple Disc Clutch Kit
    Rps Billet Carbon Hellcat Triple Disc Clutch KitRps Billet Carbon Hellcat Triple Disc Clutch Kit and Flywheel. Kit was designed for the Dodge Hellcat and Challenger applications. To be installed with either the factory FTE slave Cylinder, D151164, or with the RPS Tilton Adjustable Slave Cylinder...
    [​IMG] www.carolinaclutch.com

    MANTIC: Like other brands that offer a pressure plate that is mounted on stands/bolts in single shear (they may be just getting the same stuff and rebranding it) the Mantic has no direct connection between the pressure plate and flywheel.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is a picture of the components, including the pillars that the bolts go through:
    [​IMG]
    SPEC: looks similar to the Mantic, but it is NOT the same. Pressure plate bolts directly to the flywheel, and the floater bears directly on the pressure plate housing, not on sleeves over bolts mounted in single shear. The bolts are, of course in single shear, strictly speaking, but the base of the integrated pillar/pressure plate through which they mount is FAR wider than the little pillars included with the Mantic.
    [​IMG]
    Notice how the Spec (Hellcat version) bolts directly to the flywheel:
    [​IMG]
    Of course, there are a variety of exotic, not-necessarily-streetable offerings with sintered iron facings for on/off switch engagement specifically made for racing.

    RAM and McLeod have a setup where a thick additional flywheel face is bolted to the stock (or aftermarket) flywheel, then everything bolts to that. If smooth street driving is your thing, then this system will work pretty well, I think, because it adds a substantial amount of mass to the driven package, which will aid in getting moving without chatter.

    If low polar moment is your thing, there are aluminum flywheels available from various sources, but make sure your flywheel will match whatever clutch you get, and if the setup is lighter than stock, either upgrade to a 2.98:1 first gear ratio from Rockland or be prepared to feather the clutch a bit more on starts from a standstill.

    If anyone wants to add more information, I can update this first post to include it, such as additional clutch makers.

    No clutches offered for the Hellcat by:
    A) ZOOM
    B)LuK
    (Pity, as I had a nice aluminum pressure plate/flywheel from them on one car, and it felt no different than stock, except for faster acceleration.)

    Clutch setup needs to be different, and even a different throwout bearing needs to be used with multi-disk clutches:
    Clutch setup needs to be different, and even a different throwout bearing needs to be used with multi-disk clutches:
    How To Make Your 6-Speed Wot Shift
    "After our experience with Howie's car we learned a lot about making these 6-speed cars WOT shift. I have seen countless threads on the issue and have read m...
    modernmoparforum.com"

    TRANSMISSION:
    Vendors:
    Mopar, of course.
    Rockland Standard Gear: offers a variety of solutions, including lower ratios in first four gears, home of the famous Tranzilla.

    RPM Transmissions: there one standout offering is cryogenically treating transmission internals, which evidently brings a higher level of toughness without either longevity or adding brittleness.

    Their "Stage Seven" rebuild:
    tr6060L7



    How To Make Your 6-Speed Wot Shift
    After our experience with Howie's car we learned a lot about making these 6-speed cars WOT shift. I have seen countless threads on the issue and have read m...
    modernmoparforum.com

    TRANSMISSION:
    Vendors:
    Mopar, of course.
    Rockland Standard Gear: offers a variety of solutions, including lower ratios in first four gears, home of the famous Tranzilla.

    RPM Transmissions: there one standout offering is cryogenically treating transmission internals, which evidently brings a higher level of toughness without either longevity or adding brittleness.

    Their "Stage Seven" rebuild:
    tr6060L7

    upload_2022-12-30_9-39-0.png
     
  2. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    A few comments from other people on the 'net about a couple gear vendors.
    It is not surprise, as the Hellcat world is FULL of shekel-grubbing hucksters who, for an example, sell the super-fragile carbon fiber driveshafts that seem to turn into powder with a shocking level of regularity. Oh, or the almost-as-cute-and-trendy aluminum driveshafts which get pretzeled with regularity.

    If you want a good drivershaft, get stock ones for the Redeye/Demon. Same part number, super-strong, and it was made by a company that had five years of warranty they had to dodge, so I have heard nothing but good about them. What to do if you have a standard trans, though, as the Redeyes are not standard transmissions, I do not know.
    [​IMG]
    2nd Broken Rockland Standard Gear Tranzilla.
    I now have experienced two Rockland Standard Gear Tranzilla failures. 1st time I bought the trans used and made less than 10 passes and drove around 500 miles as I was breaking in my BBG Triple and DSS 9in. I am currently only running the 2.85 with all the supporting mods on 93 fuel. I know of...

    [​IMG]
    RSG - Rockland Standard Gear - JUNK !!!
    WOW, after spending nearly $4000.00 on a Rockland Standard Gear transmission, that failed within 1500 miles, and then spending another $1000.00 to have it fixed, now it fails again after 200 miles ! What a pile of sh*t ! Save your money and go elsewhere, they are dishonest, crooks !
    [​IMG] www.z06vette.com

    Curious what were the circumstances and which gear cars were in when failure occured, if there is a pattern.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2023
  3. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    The unique Centerforce dual-disk system where only one disk has springs, BUT, the second disk ties directly onto that disk, thus concentrating all spring load to the six springs on the first disk. (unless there are six more on the back side of the thick first disk hub assembly.)

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    Spec produces a twin-plate clutch with available aluminum flywheel with Kevlar friction material.
    I notice that like many, only one of the clutch disks is sprung. This is interesting to me.

    [​IMG]
    SPEC SD80SST-H - SPEC Super Twin Clutch Kit SS-Trim: Dodge Challenger Hellcat SRT
    SPEC Super Twin Clutch Kit SS-Trim: Dodge Challenger Hellcat SRT - SD80SST-H
    www.lmperformance.com

    The pressure plate is mounted SOLIDLY to the flywheel itself, which, to me is a VERY important feature in engineering terms, as it is not tottering atop little stands that no manufacturers use if they are making a clutch for longevity.

    It is not a strap-driven assembly, so there IS a potential for some rattle, IN THEORY, but there is NO potential for the strap to buckle (pun) under reverse torque. So far, this is the one I like the most in terms of its structural design of the ones I've seen below 5,000 dollars.

    Evidently someone was looking at the stresses when it was designed, as the bolts to hold it to the flywheel are NOT centered in the stands, but placed where they will have the most positive effect in reducing the rocking effect of a single-shear bolt placement.

    The available aluminum flywheel has a steel friction face.

    I wonder at the longevity of the friction material. There is not a lot of thickness between finished surface and the beginning of the rivets, and to me, that is a concern, as it limits the useful friction material to around half of the thickness on the puck.

    I would not be above ordering clutch friction disks from elsewhere to put in this clutch if they had no rivets, as it would aid in longevity, in my view. I have never been a fan of riveted friction material, but it does tend to stay put and not slide off.

    But, as a counterpoint, our brake pads have material that stays put, and they do not use rivets; it ain't rocket science.
     
  5. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    Last edited: Jan 10, 2023
  6. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    This forum does not seem terribly well-traveled. I notice that the braying shriekers who try to pick a fight with you and get you banned have given up and gone back to their other forums.

    That tactic may work on any forum owned by the NAMbLA defenders at Vertical Scope, but evidently it failed here.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2023
  7. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    Clutch that I have noticed is of the standoff-type, mounting the pressure plate on pillars is McLeod.

    https://www.cspracing.com/mcleod-rx...-challenger-hellcat-manual-6-2l-v8/6975-07hd/

    McLeod clutches must wholesale for cheap, because they sure are hyped by those who make money from selling them.

    But they are NOT hyped by people who have owned them for a while.

    [​IMG]

    Their somewhat clumsy "make a fast buck for installers" system is to bolt even MORE mass on the existing flywheel and thus eliminate any need to resurface or replace the stock flywheel and instead add extra weight to the whole system.

    I can see why speed shops rub their hand with glee on this one. No removal of the stock flywheel required.

    However, as the whole assembly weighs in at close to double the stock setup, tipping the scales at around 80 pounds.

    A heavier flywheel makes standing starts easier, but you pay for it every single moment you accelerate the car.

    Another problem with a super-heavy rotating assembly before the transmission is that it is harder on the synchros and gears. SOMETHING has to equalize the rotation of the transmission and the flywheel etc., and that thing would be the longsuffering synchros.

    If you want your synchros to last as long as possible, then get the lightest clutch you can stand. It pays off every time you accelerate, shift, downshift, or brake.

    This is a substantially non-mentioned part of clutch selection. A heavier, easier-to-install clutch makes a nice fast buck for the garage, but it does not do much for the longevity of your transmission.

    This is why I like the three-or-four-plate carbon clutches mentioned earlier. Like-stock feel, but low mass, especially when compared to the overall gripping power.

    The SPEC is a solidly-engineered design, unlike the McLeod, as it does not use standoffs anywhere in its construction, and lack of standoffs is much like the stock clutch you get from the factory, which is heavier than the SPEC, I imagine.

    Now, why would the factory not use standoffs so popular with aftermarket marketing hucksters?

    I have read more than one account of Mantic clutches rattling like crazy after a while, and I mean rattling really loudly AT IDLE with the car in neutral. I would never choose a Mantic for that reason. It's an atrociously bad design. Those standoffs with those long, thin bolts through them wiggle loose due to the large amount of leverage of the pressure plate placing on them way out there far from the first friction disk. Same with Bad Boyz Garage.

    Anything with "Bad Boyz" in the name is not indicative of maturity OR quality, but people who are preying on the ignorant young boys with disposable Daddy's Money® Bad Boyz clutches suffer from rattling right to outright failure. I have seen one set of pictures where the standoffs were canted over and looked to be a mess.

    Now, if you are trying to grab the cash and dash, MMX has low-price stock clutches last I checked, for a reasonable price.
    [​IMG]

    299 bucks. How can you beat that?

    https://www.modernmusclextreme.com/...-srt-replacement-clutch-by-mopar-reduced.aspx


    On the plus side for the stock clutch is that large-diameter diaphragm spring, which adds extra longevity to the diaphragm spring, unlike the cheaper, cuter, small-diameter diaphragm springs on many clutches.

    Same company selling an inexpensive Hellcat clutch: https://www.modernmusclextreme.com/...t-srt-upgrade-mopar-new-take-off-reduced.aspx

    This research has been done over years. It is designed to help you avoid pitfalls of the higher-profit clutches and be able to make an informed choice.

    If you REALLY Like minimal flywheel polar moment, there are tiny 6 and 8 inch clutches of sintered iron available, like the Pro Stockers use, Suitable for somewhat of an on/off switch engagement behavior, and minimal energy lost turning or slowing the clutch itself.

    The needed life of a Pro Stock clutch is under one minute. Thus the standoff design is not a longevity problem, unlike almost anywhere else clutches are used.
    6 1/4" Pro Stock clutch:
    [​IMG]

    The 1000hp (or so) F1 engine use tiny roughly 6" clutches. I have not bothered to research their friction material, but it only has to last two hours.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2023
  8. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    The Venerable Lenco
    https://www.lencoracing.com/


    Note: you can drive Lencos on the street. It's been done for decades. I think they have a Neutral to disconnect transmission and output. Not sure if the Neutral just cuts off output or cuts off input. I think it cuts off the output, not the input, so while in Neutral at a light, you might want to disengage all ratios prior to starting.

    ST1200 Street Strip

    The LENCO ST1200 is the answer for Pro Street and street/strip applications. This transmission can be used to drive your hot rod to work Monday through Friday and then to the dragstrip and the winner's circle on weekends. The ST1200 is the same engineering design as the all-out-race New Generation CS2 but with a couple of minor differences. One variation is that the ST1200 uses budget-friendly 8620 alloy for the gears instead of the more expensive 9310 material.
    [​IMG]


    The ST1200 also utilizes aircraft quality bearings where the pure-race CS2 uses aerospace spec components. The result is LENCO quality and durability at a reasonable "Street Machine" price. Recommended for cars making up to 1200 HP the ST1200 is pure LENCO through and through. Air or lever shift.

    This is evidently their most street-oriented offering. I believe the gears are about 0.75" in length in the planetary gearsets, as opposed to 1"-long gears in the heavier, racing-only transmissions.

    I find the Lencodrive automatic to be interesting. Why DO people go with TH400's then Lenco has a 2500hp-ready automatic?

    LENCODRIVE Automatic

    The LENCODRIVE is the automatic answer for people who prefer torque converter/automatic transmission applications. A perfect replacement for expensive breakage prone Powerglides, Turbos, C4, C6 style and Torqueflite transmissions the LENCODRIVE is 100% LENCO and will handle 2500 HP with ease.


    With a selection of 16 first-gear ratios for the two-speed and hundreds more for three-speeds the LENCODRIVE presents you with the opportunity to dial-in your exact combination. You can add additional cases and gearsets that will result in 3 or 4 speeds. As with all LENCO transmissions a separate reverse unit is employed. Air or lever shift

    One of the things that's beautiful about the Lenco is that you can choose ANY gear ratio at any time.
    For example, if your planetary sets have ratios of 1.4, 1.3, 1.2, 1.1, then you can start out (as you always do with Lencos) with all of them disengaged, giving you 2.4024:1 overall multiplication ratio. For the next gear, you can engage the 1.4:1 ratio, with drops the overall multiplication ratio down to 1.716.

    BUT, you can engage ANY of the ratios at any time. If you are starting on a very steep hill with a heavy load, you can change to 1.1, which offers very little change in engine speed versus the wheels, so you can get maximum power as you get your load rolling.

    You can tailor your revs to any situation with a relatively large degree of precision.

    And, Lencos are relatively indestructible, unlike the TR6060 which if famed for failing with high-power builds.

    The limit is 1:1 aka direct drive. That is the lowest Lenco overall ratio available. A BENEFIT of this is that you can use a taller rear end gear. (such as a 2.62 for the Challenger instead of the 3.90.)
    This would yield, at 6200RPM, a top speed of 215mph if you ever wanted to explore that.
    Cruising down the highway at 65mph, it would be 1867rpm, lower than the revs of a Hellcat in top gear right now.

    If you wanted to go all gung-ho for fuel mileage, then you could contact a gear manufacturer in Guangdong or Harbin or wherever and get some custom 1.8:1 rear differential gears made, which would drop your cruising RPM to 1282 RPM. That would help your fuel mileage. You may need a custom pumpkin for it, like the bolt-in Ford 9" differentials some offer for the Challenger/Charger.

    But, you did THAT, you would want a seven-or eight-speed Lenco for maximum performance. One of the great things about the Lenco is that you can have as many or few ratios as you want. 1 speed? Sure. Ten speed? Sure. Choose your weapons.

    BTW, later racing transmissions known as "clutchlesss" transmissions didn't mean they didn't use a clutch pedal. They meant that, unlike the Lenco, which uses planetary gears and clutch packs to engage every gear, like an automatic transmission, which are generally planetary also.

    The Lenco has clutch packs in each gear to engage (as in, lock to 1:1 ratio) that planetary set, leaving the remaining gears to multiply the torque and reduce the revs of the output.

    For heavier cars with lots of horsepower, you use more "tower pressure" to hold each clutch pack in place.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2023
  9. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    How about the now-famous Liberty transmission?

    Liberty’s Clutchless Equalizer Transmissions
    Through years of research and development, we have continued to perfect the ultimate clutchless transmission.

    Because the Equalizer has two cluster shafts instead of one, the power coming into the transmission is split so that each cluster handles half the load. Since each gear on the mainshaft has twice the number of teeth in action coupled with six rugged ball bearings to handle all the loads, the end result is higher torque capacity.

    Due to the dual countershaft design of the Equalizer, the rotating assembly is able to be lightened beyond the limits that a single cluster design transmission is restricted to, making it lighter than most of our competitor’s transmissions.

    The power flow through the Equalizer is never interrupted between gear changes. As you shift to each succeeding gear, the previous gear is overridden and automatically kicks out.

    The Equalizer is simply the fastest transmission on the market.

    The primary issue I have with the Liberty is that it is a sequential-only transmission. You just move the shifter handle back and forth as you go through the gears. No "H" pattern. But, this limits it to a certain sequence. You can't just "slap'er in neutral." This is not what people who buy Libertys really care about, though.
    [​IMG]
    Pic of Liberty with the back'n'forth-action shifter. Almost no force is applied on that tailshaft. It just neeeds to position the output shaft and as a place to solidly mount the shifter complex.

    What they like is the immediate change from one gearset to the other without having to use the clutch, which the Lenco also does, but using different means of getting there.
     
  10. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    Jerico. Note: not 'JERICHO.'

    https://www.jericoperformance.com/
    Some screed copied directly from their page about their five-speed:
    Jerico 5 Speed Clutch-less Transmission

    * Clutch-less Style Shifting
    * Split Case Design
    * Weighs 80 Pounds
    * Large Mainshaft with Caged Needle Bearings
    * Caged Needle Thrust Bearings between Mainshaft Gears
    * Caged Roller Bearings Standard in Tailhousing
    * Polishing Standard
    * Dog Rings and Sliders for Quick and Easy Shifting
    * Wide Variety of Gear Ratios Available
    * Available with Air Shifter or V Gate Shifter
    * Competition Eliminator and Pro Stock Drag Race Applications
    * Coating for the Case Available
    * Our Technicians are here to help you customize your Jerico to fit your individual racing needs!

    Interesting that they offer the transmission in clutch-shifting style, also, for the road racers.
    Jerico 5 Speed Road Racing Transmission

    * Clutch Style Shifting
    * Split Case Design
    * Weighs 80 Pounds
    * Large Mainshaft with Caged Needle Bearings
    * Caged Needle Thrust Bearings between Mainshaft Gears
    * Caged Roller Bearings Standard in Tailhousing
    * Polishing Standard
    * Dog Rings and Sliders for Quick and Easy Shifting
    * Wide Variety of Gear Ratios Available
    * Available with H Pattern Shifter
    * Available with 5.5 set back adapter
    * Coating for the Case Available
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2023