Dodge Challenger 2013 car battery died

Discussion in 'Dodge Challenger General Maintenance' started by Tiffkit1, Mar 28, 2018.

  1. Tiffkit1

    Tiffkit1 New Member

    Posts:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2018
    Location:
    Germany
    Hello , I’m a Dodge Challenger 2013 owner. First time car battery died. Left passenger door not closed all the way. Got a jump start drove about half hour. Sadly in the morning won’t start. Yes I know probably need a new battery. Questions should I have the shop test it first ? Then replace . Didn’t realize that we should have chartered it overnight. Also heard after replacing have to recalibrate key fob? Or what should we ask the shop to do? We live in Germany. Going on base or near to do this later! No dodge dealer here but they deal with some dodges on base. Alternator was replaced due to manufactures defect a few years ago don’t think it’s bad. What should we do so the delicate electrical does not get messed up with a battery replacement? Sorry for the long post.hopefully getting this up to base this afternoon. Advice please! Thanks
     
  2. IntimidatorRT

    IntimidatorRT Moderator Staff Member

    Age:
    62
    Posts:
    298
    Likes Received:
    66
    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2017
    Location:
    Rosepine,LA.
    have had 2 batteries in mine since I bought it, no worries about key fob problems , no loss of info on my radio, but all my dash settings were put back to default. just got to remember to close that door!!! :)
     
    Tiffkit1 likes this.
  3. Diehard

    Diehard Member

    Age:
    77
    Posts:
    18
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2018
    Location:
    North Reading, MA
    True, you may need a new battery but the following is what I would do.

    1. Charge your existing battery to at least 75% to full charge. Approximately 12.4 to 12.6+ volts.
    Then have it load tested. (A relatively simple matter.) This should give a pretty good indication as to whether you should replace it now or soon.

    EDIT: I thought that most things like lights, etc. shut themselves off after a period of time, like 15 minutes or so, on these late model cars. ???

    2. Regardless of how your battery tests out, you should confirm the charging output of your alternator. I know it's only a couple of years old but it only takes a couple of minutes to check it out with a volt meter.

    3. Since it sounds like you never charged your battery back up after running it pretty low, I guess we have to assume the door left slightly ajar was the culprit. Otherwise I would recommend a parasitic draw test just to make sure you that there is nothing that is drawing a bit more current then it should when the car has been shut off. (More than about 50milliamps)

    As far as losing power when replacing battery, probably not a problem. But now-a-days most places that sell and replace batteries have a temp power supply they hook up to prevent the break in power, while replacing the battery.

    If you don't have a multi-tester to test voltage and amps, I recommend you get one. For less then $20 it gives you the ability to quickly check voltage levels of your battery after sitting for periods of time, checking charging voltage, amp draw if you got ambitious.(YouTube is your friend.)
     
    Tiffkit1 likes this.

Share This Page