Here are a few spark plug replacement tips: Only change plugs when the heads are cool enough for you to put your hand on them and keep it there. Aluminum is a softer metal and plugs can bind with hot heads or pull the threads...all of which leads to very expensive repairs. Torque plugs to ~ 13 ft.lb. Be careful not to overtighten. Overtightened plugs can strip the threads if overdone. The 5.7 has a washer that crushes when tightening to final torque that locks them in. The 6.1 and 6.4 engines have taper-seat plugs. You snug those down until they seat, then 1/8 of a turn.
Good tips. The two biggest mistakes most people make with spark plugs is over-tightening and changing on a hot engine. Both can cause stripped heads or broken plugs
Here are two more tips: Use a special GearWrench brand 5/8 magnetic plug wrench (you can buy one at Advance Auto for about $12). Use 2 swivels 1/4 and 3/8 drive and a 10mm socket and end wrench (the passenger rear and the driver's front are the only tough ones to do because the screw that hold on the coil pack is kind of hard to reach- that's when the end wrench comes in handy).
I have the original plugs. The SRTs have platinum plugs that are good for 100,000 miles. I'll change them out before then, but I have a long way to go before I hit that mark.
Only 15K. Because I take the train to work and don't have a garage anymore (converted to a 4th BR), I only drive it on weekends.
It is in my driveway under a Covercraft car cover. The Covercraft keep the car in showroom condition, but I am on my 4th one in 6 years. The wind and sun do a number on them. Luckily, there are covered with 3-year warranties.