Why Synthetic Is Better Than Conventional Oil

Discussion in 'Dodge Challenger General Maintenance' started by SRT-Tom, Oct 13, 2022.

  1. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    Tests that are passed do not have to be passed with flying colors. They just have to barely pass, that was part of my point.

    The amount of testing done by Amsoil that proves the superiority of their lubricants to others that "pass the ASTM tests" proves that the ASTM tests are not indicative of anything other than legality for the product to boast that it has passed an ASTM test.

    The wear and viscosity testing Amsoil does proves the superiority of their product. I have noticed a massive dearth of any other brand of oil pitting its products against a wide variety of other brands. Amsoil fears no such comparison because it is so superior.

    I am ever on the lookout for an even better oil. It may be costly, but, hey, I like it. Some people like junk food. Everyone's got their preferences. If I had a big fleet of trucks to oil, I would probably be more inclined to go cheap with the oil, but I would also be inclined to do a comparison test between two nearly-identical trucks to compare different oil and filter systems.

    What has always kind of disgusted me is seeing used gear or transmission oil drained and watching it fall ever-so-eagerly from the gearbox or differential housing, exhibiting almost no viscosity difference between it and water.

    It's one of the reasons I choose Amsoil. In direct testing, it was found to have the lowest change in viscosity compared to lesser oils. Royal Purple did particulary bad, if I recall correctly. Oil that is all gooey when new but loses all its film strength after use is just crappy oil, as other tests performed by Amsoil demonstrated.

    Note: if one claims "But, Amsoil did the test, so it's invalid:"
    A) Then why didn't the other companies do the tests?
    B) It was not done by Amsoil, but by an independent research lab. Amsoil just gladly seized upon the results.

    Also, I like the longer intervals between oil changes afforded by better lubricants and better filtration systems.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2023
  2. 2009 Classic B5

    2009 Classic B5 Full Access Member

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    Why pay for a diamond whan a sapphire or ruby would do? I have formulated heavy duty diesel engine oils that protected truck engines for 2 million miles before overhauls which had more to do with seals than wear. This was at 15,000 mile drain intervals, so not a trivial accomplishment. Much of what Amsoil advertises is wear data using tests that are meaningless in actual engine service. As I said, I can get far more useful life from an engine by changing oil than by caring which oil I use.
    Back in 1969, I purchased my first car, a 340 FB Barracuda. I raced the snot out of it, 350+ runs plus 60,000 street miles and one run up to 140 MPH (don't tell anyone!). I broke a hose and overheated a head, but there was no piston wear at top ring reversal at all and 100% crosshatching after all that abuse. But I changed my oil (synthetics didn't exist back then) before each day racing. Considering that these were SE and SF oils back then, that says a lot about oils protecting and engine. I see no technical need for Amsoil. But if you want to pay for diamonds all the time, go for it.
     
  3. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    I don't argue with you for your choices. You arrived at them due to your set of research, experience, and information, that I also do not dispute in any way. How can you dispute facts?

    I guess I just baby my cars, and spoil them, so to speak. I like doing it and it gives me peace of mind. Same reason I have bought premium gas even on cars that don't technically need it. It's a hobby, and I enjoy doing it this way. I am one of the few people you "know" who enjoys gassing up my car with expensive gas.

    Part of the fun is the amount of research, sometimes years, it takes to find what I consider to be the best of everything. I like research. One of the things I was hoping to do one day is take big very-heavy-magnetism super magnets and CNC them into drain plugs, if the steel is up to snuff for that particular application. Filtration and liquid purification are some of my many hobbies.

    I've been studying that for decades and still manage to turn up new stuff. It's part of the fun, moreso than just taking the (often cheaper) shortcut of dumping the liquids more often.

    I like the peace of mind that comes with "There. I've done everything I can." Like, when I blew the motor in my Neon ACR (actually, didn't blow the whole motor, just kissed a piston with a valve due to the Rubbermaster 5000 shift cables between the shifter and the trans, which made a powershift from 3rth to 4th into a powershift from 3rd to 2nd, and limped home.) The rocker had fallen off one of the cylinder's intake valves, so the only damage requiring a new part was the slightly-bent valve.

    I then got the cylinder head decked, got 1mm larger valves for exhaust and intake, higher-RPM springs (good for 10,000 RPM) and titanium retainers, plus some rockers that had larger oiling holes on them to better handle higher RPM, and then made sure the kissed piston was okay before putting reusable head studs on the motor to replace the "torque to yield" head bolts.

    The next plan before I got rid of the car was some adjustable cam wheels and a header. The upgrades I had done thus far were overkill for the Neon in its then-present state, but, hey, I sure enjoyed it. My engine could have easily handled 10,000 RPM, as it is hard to overstress your pistons and rods on a naturally-aspirated engine, which the guys at Garage 54 proved. If your pistons and rods can't be damaged on a Lada with no head on the engine at 10,000 RPM, it is likely most any 4-banger would be unharmed.


    The peak load on a naturally-aspirated engine's crank or connecting rod is at TDC of the exhaust stroke. No heads on the motor would have massively exacerbated this stress, if anything. I wouldn't mind another Neon, actually, as modifying them for fun and speed is pretty darn cheap.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2023
  4. stingray

    stingray Full Access Member

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    Factory fill on the older Corvettes was 5W-30 GM 4718 Mobil One motor oil.
     
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  5. SRT-Tom

    SRT-Tom Well-Known Member Staff Member Super Moderator Article Writer

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    Also, the 6.1 HEMI.
     
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  6. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    If I had equatorial-level temperatures a LOT, I would even consider some 10- or 20W50 oil. However, The temps I experience are not quite in Sahara levels.
     
  7. stingray

    stingray Full Access Member

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    How about 10W/30?
     
  8. Moparisto

    Moparisto Full Access Member

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    Yes, 20-50 is kind of a huge leap, isn't it? That would be for climbing the grapevine daily during a Fahrenheit 451 situation or whatever...
    But, it's hard to find 10W50, isn't it? I like the 50 when it's hot and 20 when it's not warmed up yet thing.
     
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  9. Octane

    Octane Full Access Member

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    We had three vettes in the family, all three had underhood Mobil 1 recommendation stickers stuck under there. Hated to do any service/repair work on those cars.But they were very dependable
     
  10. Octane

    Octane Full Access Member

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    I used to have a chart showing how to mix various viscosity oils to create a specific viscosity. Found it online years ago. If you couldnt find say, a 10/50,you could mix some up and get it