Why Synthetic Is Better Than Conventional Oil

Oh, okay.

Never thought of just mixing up some oils in an alchemical fashion.

But, in its trip through the engine, the hottest the oil is going to get is when it cools the piston domes from the underside. Also hot will be oil in contact with the exhaust valve stem and roof of exhaust port. Obviously, the film of oil facing the combustion chamber on the cylinders will be hot.

I wonder which oil location in the engine would most directly benefit the lubricating properties by being aggressively cooled. The oil film in the plain bearing must get rather toasty, if only momentarily, due to the pressure and friction, such as on the cam bearing, and the crank bearings as they do face some high loading in addition to the highest RPM of any part in the engine (other than the oil pump?)

Oiling is not a really heavily-parsed system even as of yet. The "state of the art" thus far is just throw a dry sump and a thermostatic cooler on it and call'er done. The problem being, of course, with dry sumps, is that all those additional scavenger sections that suck up the oil spray and evacuate the air from the crankcase consume power that is not returned to the engine during normal usage. If I recall correctly the F1 engines are mandated to have a dry sump system, last rule set I read through. At 15,000 RPM, that makes even more sense, though I'm not sure they have higher parts linear speeds in and F1 engine due to the super-short strokes.

If one could super-cool the oil just moments before it hit the most heat-stressed portions of its travels, one could save some energy from being needlessly wasted.

BTW, oil spray cooling the valve springs can help with their longevity to reduce from the heat they generate due to the springing action costing some internal heating due to hysteresis.

Titanium springs are very low-hysteresis and low weight, but oy, they just don't have anywhere near the longevity of the good ol' spring steel. Great if you are drag racing and have a huge budget. Not so great if you don't.

By cooling the oil, you can reduce its peak temperatures to better suit its purposes. As with many things, just adding massive oil cooler capacity can really assist, keeping your oil from hitting peaks that are too high.

Also, as one user pointed out above, just changing it more often to avoid breakdown of its best properties.

Also, why not use a catch can to keep the stank oil out of one's intake system?

 

Does that really work? If I mix say, 5w30 and 5w40 half-and-half do I get 5w35?

 

Was an Amsoil guy>Mobli 1 guy>Pennzoil guy...

I grenaded a 2010 Sprinter, using the correct Pentosin oil in it, spun a bearing less than a mile from home. So much for Mercedes über engineering.

 

Which Mobil 1 viscosity 5W-30?

 

There is also I have heard of Valvoline Restore & Protect but I am not sure if that is what you would need or if it helps if you have carbon deposits.

 

You mean like my big Diesel truck that has towed tens of thousands of pounds for hundreds of thousands of miles, has a mileage of 380,000 miles on it that has had an Amsoil bypass filter on it since new, and on which I change the oil maybe once per year?

The Amsoil still retains its viscosity, another hallmark of a great oil. it doesn't get runny like the cheaper synthetics, like Royal Purple. I watched it drain and it was still viscous when I changed the oil recently. In stark contrast, I have seen Royal Purple and other brands like Redline of rear end lube drained after use, and it looked like water falling out of that rearend cover.

In fact, it looked less viscous than my engine oil does when I drain it.

Rearend lube is around 75W90 viscosity. It is FAR more viscous than engine oil, and retains this film strength much longer if it is Amsoil.

Yet, when it was drained after a viscosity retention test, it looked like water and did not retain its viscosity as well as the Amsoil stuff then measured directly against it.

As a side note, I put the largest bypass filter on the truck that will fit on the smaller-sized bypass filter pad. Oil has plenty of time to wander through there and dump most of the mean little particles the main engine oil filter does not capture.

Your choice, though. I chose Amsoil due to months and years of diligent fact-finding. You can find plenty of evidence online if you want to look for it. Meanwhile, my truck keeps on trucking.

 

Frantz makes an additive booster for your oil

https://www.frantzfilters.com/product/tbn-booster/

In case you go for long intervals between oil changes and want to refresh the additive package.

 

Please, demonstrate how you know these tests to be meaningless.

I change my oil maybe once per year. Total cost of oil, filters, a dozen fuel additive bottles from Amsoil was about 300 bucks. 380,000 miles. How's that for some real-world tests?

The oil I use in the truck is 15W40.