My 2011 6 speed RT had the sticky clutch issues. Stuck in gear when parked on an incline, rough shifting, need to double clutch when downshifting etc. Yesterday I removed the transmission and installed the special grease on the input shaft and clutch disc splines. It was a PITA. I did it laying on my back in my garage on my QuickJack lift and used a Harbor Freight low trans jack. My back is not yet 100% after a herniated disk in November and my shoulders are shot after 2 rotator cuff surgeries. That made it a bit tougher. This is not a complete DIY step by step procedure. Just some tips I learned the hard way. I watched a video on You tube of a guy that did a clutch on a Hellcat. It was similar, but on the RT the trans will not unbolt from the bellhousing because some bolts go through from the inside. He was able to get the trans out without removing the driveshaft. I was not. The bellhousing bolts are tight and/or have loctite on them. I have a cheap 1/2" cordless impact that would not quite break them loose. A long 1/2" extension and wobble impact sockets help to reach the top bellhousing bolts but I actually used a standard 1/2" ratchet to break them loose. The exhaust bolts that hold the pipes to the manifolds were very tight. I soaked the and the slips joints to the back half of the exhaust with penetrating oil for 1/2 hour before proceeding. The bolts on some parts are odd sizes. I used 13,14, 15, and 16mm sockets. There is a mix of American and German influence on this car. Disconnecting the shifter was easy enough from under the car but the dust boot came out of the hole in the floor. I may need to pull the console to get it back in place. The bushing at the rear of the shifter was worn/deteriorated. I had to order a new one. It is attached from inside the car. I have to pull the console now anyway to replace that. I removed the cat converters and left the rest of the exhaust in the car. it was not in the way. Remove the driveshaft. I got jammed up on it. The trans has to slide back about 6" to come out. The driveshaft will be in the way. Once I removed it I found the rubber boot on the slip joint was deteriorated and torn. Fortunately it is above a heat shield and is still clean and not rusted. My car hs 119,000 miles on it. The hydraulic clutch line clip came out easily. It is small and can be lost easily. Also if it slips when reinstalling it can fall into a hole in the bellhousing. Fortunately I was able to remove it from the bellhousing with a magnet. Once I get my driveshaft boot and shifter grommet I can finish the car.
Thanks Tom. Also, removing the hydraulic line was the last thing I did before removing the 2 lower bellhousing bolts and pulling the trans. That way there would be less time for brake fluid to drip on me. But, I had a piece of 5/16" fuel line that fit snugly on the hydraulic line. I plugged the end of the fuel line with a tapered nozzle that comes with a tube of automotive silicone sealer.. It didn't drip and I only lost a few drops of brake fluid when disconnecting and reconnecting.
