180 Thermostat

No idea if I am under warranty and I don't care if I am or not. I don't have a Hellcat and didn't want one. From all of my research, I haven't found a single case of someone ruining their motor because they wanted it to run around 195 degrees instead of 215 degrees. If you know of anyone, let's see it. I also have yet to see SRT-Tom say ANYTHING favorable about ANYTHING not on HIS car, so there's that. Maybe that's why hardly anyone posts here anymore?

 

Maybe some day, someone will come up with a stroker kit for the 3.6, nothing radical.

 

There’s already a Shaker kit I think.

 

I know Direct Connection sells a lot of items for the Challengers & Chargers. I was hoping they would throw us 3.6 guys a few motor upgrades and or maybe a nicely designed supercharger or turbo kit.

 

A few people told me to go with a twin turbo kit when I was ordering my Ripp Heritage Edition supercharger. The only problem was at that time there was only 1 company offering it, and they had 1 kit on 1 car. I needed something more proven. There's dozens of engine upgrades for the V6 Challenger, but even if you did every single one you wouldn't get the horsepower upgrade of what the Ripp supercharger gives you. I'm completely satisfied with what I got from the Ripp and a custom tune, so I have zero more engine mods planned. I'd like to do a rear seat delete next year if anyone in my area can install it for me. Need to repaint a few things too, probably over the winter when my car's in storage.

 

Yeah I would not want to be the guy who goes through all the headaches of working out the bugs on a new product.
RIPP has a lot of 3.6 installed out there so you have the reliability there.

 

Here's what the RIPP version offering says. By the way, having looked at several install videos, all produced the desired cooling results without having to adjust the ECM.

https://rippmods.com/products/2012-2016-pentastar-180-deg-thermostat

 

Yep, that's what I run. Water boils at 212 degrees. I like my car at 195 instead of 210-217. My tuner has done over 200 cars with most having the 180 thermostat. No issues other than a couple of Mishimoto ones failing, which was due to manufacturer defect.

 

BOILING & FREEZING POINTS
Pure water, as you may know, has a boiling point of 212°F (100°C) and a freezing point of 32°F (0°C). However, when you create a 50/50 mixture using water and ethylene glycol, the boiling point rises to 223°F (106°C) and the freezing point lowers to -35°F (-37°C). When you take it one step further, creating a 30/70 mixture of water and ethylene glycol, the boiling point rises to 235°F (113°C) and the freezing point lowers to -67°F (-55°C).

PS, water ALONE, when put in a system pressurized to one bar above ambient has its vaporization temperature raised to 250°F. Ethylene glycol and water would be even higher than that.

Now, the temps in the top paragraph completely ignore the FACT that the cooling system with ethylene glycol needs to be pressurized as that raises the boiling point even further, but note that the point at which the coolant will cavitate at the lowest-pressure parts of the coolant pump impeller is still not that far away. Cavitation of the impeller happens at the highest RPM and temperature, aka, when you need actual pumping, not fruitless cavitation, the most.

By contrast, propylene glycol is about 170 degrees away from its vaporization temperature, and thus much farther away from potential low-pressure-caused cavitation than is water and/or ethylene glycol, so a coolant pump pumping propylene glycol at maximum load and RPM will pump coolant more consistently and accurately than will one pumping the other coolants.

The way I got rid of the water in my (pink coolant) Hellcat system (pink is PG-based coolant) is I undid the caps on supercharger and engine coolant and drove the car normally. The water contained in normal coolant mixes just boiled off over time, and I stopped every so often and refilled the coolant with pure propylene glycol until it quit dropping, indicating almost all the water had been removed.

Propylene glycol boils at 370 at zero additional pressure. That's why I put just that in my Hellcat's cooling system and supercharger cooling system. No water, no galvanic effect, no pressure in system, always run with radiator and supercharger coolant reservoir caps loose or removed. If

I have used this on five different vehicles including the super-hot-running RX7 rotary, which I drove to the top of a 10,050 foot mountain and opened the radiator cap with my face just above it, because I knew that due to the fact that I use cap modified to make it only breathe in and out to the reservoir but not pressurize, it would not blow out and geyser coolant. It was the perfect storm of bad things to do with the usual coolants people use, but not with propylene glycol. High load, high altitude, tropical location, warm ambient temperatures, low ambient pressures.

Propylene glycol has nucleate boiling, not blanket boiling, so removes heat without forming a "protect the hot spot from the coolant" steam blanket over the hottest parts of the engine, so it removes heat more effectively where it is most needed.

Propylene glycol cools the roof of the combustion chamber better than other coolants, as it does not "blanket boil" and dance over the roof with very little heat transfer. With the relatively-very-low 215 or so degree thermostat from the factory, the propylene glycol is not at a risk of boiling as it travels over the hottest part of the cooling liquid jacket (the space between the spark plugs and the exhaust valve.)

PG FTW. I have a 5-gallon bucket partially full left over to add to the next car. It's food grade. I could drink it if I wanted to. It ain't going to add anything bad to the motor of any vehicle.

On another note, one year of Corvette used cooling from the top of the engine downward, putting the coolest coolant on the combustion chamber roof, then using the heat from that hot area to warm the cylinder walls from there downwards, which, to me, would be an ideal partner to the propylene glycol.

You can run your engine at 300 degrees if you use propylene glycol AND top-down cooling, but if one were to do so, REALLY aggressive oil cooling would be what I would use, to cool the undersides of those pistons with straight-from-the-oil-cooler oil, and keep the oil at a more oil-friendly temperature overall.

A 300 degree engine discards less heat energy needed to push the pistons down, too.
However, it would be a research project in itself to find and ensure the hottest lubricated parts of the motor would be receiving oil of adequate viscosity at that temperature range, such as starting with Amsoil (wouldn't consider other cheap trash oil, as I have done a lot of research) 20W50 or even higher viscosity.

 

When my thermostat failed my engine temporarily got to around 245 degrees. My mechanic said around 260 degrees is when you could start warping or melting the cylinder heads. No idea if that's true, but he knows much more than I do.