My 2009 Challenger SRT (6.1, Auto.) is fixed and back on the road! I thought it may help some other forum member to recount my ordeal and explain how you fix an ABS Control Module problem. About a month ago, the dreaded ESP, BAS, Traction Control, Brake and Service Engine Soon lights came on while driving. I, initially, thought that I had another faulty wheel speed sensor. To save money, I took my car to my local mechanic. He, however, diagnosed the problem as a low voltage situation and installed a new battery. I did not think that the battery was the problem since it was a one year-old Bosch AGM battery. After paying a $150 diagnostic charge and $330 for a new battery, I started my car and all of the lights came back on! I went back into the shop and the mechanic refunded all of my money and said that I needed to go to my Dodge dealer. The next day, I drove to the dealer in limp mode. They had my car for 2 days trying to find the cause of the low voltage. Finally, they determined that it was a bad ABS Control Module. Now the fun started. They advised me that MOPAR no longer stocks the module because my car is over 10 years old! Also, they stated that even if they could find a used or re-manufactured part, they were not allowed to install it. So, I paid a $220 diagnostic charge and drove my car home, again, 20 miles in limp mode! (Note- I only got 10 mpg). After I got back, I contacted four vendors who rebuild automotive modules. All of them stated that they do not work on older MOPAR modules. In desperation, I went to the internet and, after several hours, found a reputable vendor on E-Bay, Apex Engine Parts, who re-manufactures ABS Control Modules. After giving him the part number, he confirmed that he had one in stock. The price was $525, with a 1-year warranty. (Note- ABS modules, for 2009 models, are extremely difficult to find). Now that I got the part, I thought the installation would be easy because the module is high up in the engine bay. Well, I was wrong. With the big 6.1 engine, there is no room to remove the module because the windshield washer filler neck is right next to it (see photo). In my model, the filler neck is integrated into the reservoir and the whole unit has to be moved! After watching some videos and getting some help from you guys, I worked up the following removal/installation process: Supplies Needed ABS Control Module (for your specific year, model and engine) T20 torx bit 10mm and 12mm sockets 1/4-inch and ½-inch socket ratchet wrenches Floor jack Jack stand Wheel chocks Magnetic Jack Pad Frame Rail Adapter (with Slotted Puck Pinch Weld) Windshield washer tubing (to drain reservoir) Small Bungee cord (to hold back wheel well liner) Ice pick, plastic trim remover tool and pliers (to remove plastic rivets) Screwdriver Plastic push-in rivets or rivet gun (Harbor Freight) Rubber gloves Plastic bag Compressed air Steps to Replace ABS Control Module 1. Remove negative battery cable and wait 5 minutes for current to dissipate. 2. Use screwdriver to move trunk latch to “lock” position to open later. 3. Put wheel chocks in place. 4. Jack up car at rocker panel cut-out. Use magnetic jack pad frame rail adapter with slotted puck pinch weld. 5. Position jack stand on frame. 6. Remove lugs and wheel. 7. Remove plastic rivets near front of car, with ice pick, plastic trim tool and pliers. 8. Peel back forward section of fender liner and secure with Bungee cord. 9. Install hose to drain windshield washer fluid into bucket for re-use. 10. Spray compressed air on external ABS module to remove dust. Use rubber gloves. 11. Remove 2-3 bolts securing washer reservoir. Use socket extension. 12. Remove bottom two T20 torx screws from module through wheel well opening using ¼ drive ratchet. 13. Remove top two ABS module torx screws. (Access from top of engine bay). 14. Remove electric plug harness. Slide the red locking tab backward into unlocked position. Lift the locking lever/slider frame upward to 90 degree position. This will push the harness plug straight off the module header. Wiggle module off. Place in sealed plastic bag to prevent contamination. 15. Carefully align new module and push in to install. 16. Re-attach electric plug harness. Swing lever lock down until it clicks and press the red locking tab back in. 17. Install 4 torx screws (bottom two first). 18. Install top two torx screws (Access from top of engine bay). 19. Re-bolt windshield washer reservoir. 20. Re-attach reservoir hose. 21. Use rivet gun or push-pins to re-secure fender liner. 22. Install wheel and lugs and torque to specs. 23. Remove jack stand. 24. Lower jack. 25. Remove chocks. 26. Re-install negative battery cable. 27. Re-fill windshield washer reservoir. 28. Call mobile service for programming/calibration for your VIN (about $150-200), or go to a mechanic or dealer with an advanced scanner (e.g., Autel MaxiCOM MK808S, LAUNCH CRP123X/CRP129X, Speed OBDLink MX+), unless you have one. Note- These advanced scan tools go beyond basic OBD‑II code reading and can communicate with the ABS module’s proprietary network and software. This is because the ABS module is a dedicated chassis control unit that records and stores diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in the “C‑code” range, separate from the engine’s “P‑codes.”
