Electrical Glitches-Anybody have answers ?

Discussion in 'First Generation Challenger Forum' started by Tom Slick, Jul 27, 2018.

  1. Tom Slick

    Tom Slick New Member

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    '71 Challenger convt. ( base ) was 318-2, 904 auto, 7 1/4 rear. Now 440-6pak, 727 auto, 8 3/4 rear. Got the car out this spring & fuel gauge, B/U lites & LH T/S all had issues over the non-driving season here in Mi. ( No, not mice chewing issues, not in MY garage ! ) Gas gauge issue was resolved by installing new fuel sending unit ( plastic float developed a leak & didn't float anymore:( New one is BRASS :). B/U lite malfunction was caused by molded rubber plug issue on trans switch.....replaced & now working. LH T/S lite would light but not flash; RH flashed as usual, as did 4-way flashers. Cleaned-off ground wires, bolt & captive nut on rad support for battery/engine/light harness ground & put Vasoline on for corrosion protection. Monkey-farted around with LH T/S housing....tapped bottom frt. valance screw holes in housing deeper & installed slightly longer screws. LH lites now flash, but issue now is the opposite side lites will flash ( faintly ) while T/S is activated.....doesn't matter which T/S is activated, the opposite will flash; including the headlites....brights & dims. Engine wiring harness has been replaced with repop to hook-up idle solenoid for center carb & change to electronic ( Mopar ) ignition. Headlite harness, tail lite harness, & under dash harness are OEM 1971 vintage. Turn signal & ignition switches have both been replaced, all light bulbs are NEW. Local garage is stumped trying to figure what's wrong; says voltage drops are all within spec. Tried new T/S switch with same results. Ideas on fixing the problem ?? Everyone says it's a ground issue. What am I missing here ?? Help !!
     
  2. 70-426_10-SRT

    70-426_10-SRT Full Access Member

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    1st off, Congrats for holding on to a 71 E-Body Convertible
    :cheers:
    Does it work correctly with the engine running?
    I too, would say ground issue, but have seen bad 1157 bulbs cause that problem on my bikes.
    Did you do EXTRA ground straps from Engine to body to frame?

    Would LOVE to see pics :artist1:
    I miss the sound of a CARB'ed BigBlock Chrysler.
    You still running the STOCK Holly's?
     
  3. F4Phantom2

    F4Phantom2 Member

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    This happens with trailer lights when the ground is weak. Put a ground wire on the bulb mount itself.
     
  4. Tom Slick

    Tom Slick New Member

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    Hi, & thanx for your reply to my inquiry :) OK, I'll give that a shot, too. I just pulled the alt.off & had that checked for bad diodes & check charge rate. It was " OK " @ O'Rielly's, Advance Auto & Auto Zone. Supposedly, @ NAPA it checked " Bad ", but that was after I said something about diodes causing me electrical problems. That's why I went to all 4 of the auto parts stores locally, to get a consensus on the actual condition. Not that I don't trust these kids that only know what the computer tells them about your application; give me an " Old School " parts guy that actually has a CLUE on how things work & what fits what on a car.......any time ! Too bad they're all retiring out. Tom
     
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  5. 70-426_10-SRT

    70-426_10-SRT Full Access Member

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    Updates??

    And did you figure out how to upload to YouTube some video for us? :)
     
  6. Tom Slick

    Tom Slick New Member

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    Hello, 1st gen Challenger bloggers-- As a follow-up to my original post of July 27th, I've done the following to TRY to remedy my electrical issues: Tapped-out a 3/8" hole in the back of the R/H head, scraped away the St. Hemi orange paint from the hole, sprayed Brak-Leen in & blew out with air nozzle. I then installed a braided ground strap I got from the local parts store from the head to the bracket holding my ECM to the firewall. No difference. My '70 RoadRunner buddy came over & ran ground wires from the tail light pods & side marker light pods to the trunk latch bracket ( soldering & installing shrink wrap on connections ) & also from the front turn signal pods to the rad support ground. I also took out the drivers seat for easier access for the old guy [ me ] to get to the underside of the dash, tore the 1/4 dash with the H/L switch in it apart & replaced the H/L switch ( used ), panel dimmer switch ( used.....having extra parts comes in handy ) & W/S wiper switch ( NOS ). Still same issues. We ran a car jumper cable from the neg. battery post to the front frame rail & bumper bracket & tried the turn signals. No difference. Any other ideas out there ??
     
  7. 70-426_10-SRT

    70-426_10-SRT Full Access Member

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    You know it is could to be something stupid like the Turn Indicator Mechanism or Ignition Switch.
    As you have changed everything else.
    I remember changing the Turn Indicator Mechanism twice in my '70 Challenger and at least once in my '67 Charger.