R/T owners, what mod would you do first all over again?

[Shaggy]

If you were starting over with a bone stock R/T, what's the first thing you'd do? Exhaust, intake, tune, tires? What made the biggest difference for the money?

 

[Moparisto]

I know I didn't own an R/T, but with those thick cylinder walls, that engine was MADE for boost.

 

[Cloverdale]

Not really. My Magnuson boosts safely at 7psi. which still provides a significant hp increase (I'm at 550 chp in a 2010). Unlike engine applications with forged internals which safely tolerate much larger numbers. A significant mod for the early automatic R/T's is the install of an LSD in the range of 3.91 (requires diff and axle change).

 

[FALL3]

I opened up the air flow at both ends. Removed plastic cover from headlight, and I noticed incoming air was hitting air box. Got out a 4" circular saw and cut into box. Gave a good air flow just below the air filter. Went to other end of car and had resonators removed, straight pipe installed; kept mufflers. I don't have access to a dyno; no baseline to compare to, but I'll say torque change was felt in the butt-o-meter.

 

[Moparisto]

Presently considering among many other cars, an R/T specifically to boost the heck out of it.Those thicc cylinder walls are flirting with me like Black Betty's bootie.
And as Richard Holdener proved, you can always add boost, boost, and more boost. Just set your ring gaps.
My driving has dropped dramatically ever since I moved so close to the local public transit I quit driving much of anywhere, svaving me over a grand a month on fuel. Thus, I do not CARE about fuel economy.

I care about the art of high performance cars. It is an art form to me, not just a hobby.